Access

This relatively unknown area in the far eastern “Sierra Almeriense” with easy access is often overlooked. There is no recommendable ski touring here and yet the northern slopes are rocky, steep and broken. When the snow lies low down or a severe cold spell of high pressure arrives from the N then some interesting mountaineering is to be found. This guide highlights the two mountaineering classics of the area but many other climbs of an “exploratory” nature could be made on surrounding mountains and butresses.

The routes are below 2500m so the season is shorter (Jan to March) and snow needs to be well consolidated for the following routes to come into condition. After heavy snowfall there is sometimes more avalanche risk here than in the more lofty neighbours further to the W.

Accommodation is few and far between in the Abrucena area so it is recommended to stay in Guadix (30 mins) or Granada (1hr)

By Car

Suitable for saloon cars with care

Just a few km S of the A.92 motorway between Guadiz and Almeria lies the sleepy village of Abrucena. As you enter the village turn R, signposted “Parque Natural Sierra Nevada”. As often happens in Spain there are few repeat signs when you need them, but generally the route passes through the northern edge of the village. If in doubt at a junction always take the best and well used road. You emerge SW of the village where another similar sign points the way ahead, signposted “La Roza 8km”.

At first this follows the northern bank of the Barranco de Peña Horadada, crosses the river and climbs the Cuerda de la Mina. At 8km from the village just before a bridge over the stream, turn R climb the shoulder. The track changes from tarmac to dirt road here but is generally well maintained. After another 4km the Puente del Diablo at 1520m is reached.

Routes

Cerro Buitre from the Barranco del Diablo

Grade AD-

• Start/Finish Puente del Diablo
• Height gain 950m
• High point 2465m

When in condition this is a traditional gully climb giving an entertaining and direct route. In early season it can be a thin line of hard ice

From Puente del Diablo head directly up the lower slopes of the gorge. If conditions are right you will meet some small ice steps along the way. At 1800m the gully forks. Take the right. As the gully steepens try to take all steps direct for maximum enjoyment. The angle is generally 35° but there are short (10-20m) icy pitches to 60°.

An alternative ascent (slightly easier) would be to take the left branch of the gully at 1800m. Descend to the start point via the Loma de la Mina to the NNE.

The Corredor de Peña Horadada

Grade AD

• Start/Finish Puente del Diablo
• Height gain 910m
• High point 2408m

When in condition this is a traditional gully climb giving an entertaining and direct rout. A long narrow gully leading to a spectacular peak

Park at the Puente del Diablo and walk 0.5km W to the start of the Barranco de Peña Horadada. Mixed climbing over short steps leads to the barranco proper. In lean conditions some difficult waterfalls may provide some problems. The gully breaks out onto more amenable slopes above

Easiest descent is by walking up to the main ridge and E to the Cerro del Buitre where easier slopes lead N down the Loma de la Mina and back to the Puente del Diablo.